Embarking on a journey through New Zealand’s South Island is akin to stepping into a realm of awe-inspiring landscapes, welcoming communities, and thrilling exploits. With each twist and turn, a new marvel unfurls—from towering peaks to tranquil lakes. An extraordinary destination that isn’t so easily accessible from the rest of the world due to its geographical isolation, Aotearoa, the name given to the islands by the Maori, is a destination that’s easy to navigate and feel comfortable in.
Towns such as Christchurch and Queenstown in the south look, at first glance, not too different from North American and Australian cities. One of the key aspects setting them apart from most western mid-size towns is their urban planning, which prioritizes livability and leisure of their inhabitants. Christchurch, Wanaka, and Queenstown, for example, invite citizens and visitors to merge into the natural flow of the city and take things slow, instead of rushing all over to get through the day as quickly as possible.
Leave the cities behind
Nice as these cities may be, they will blush when compared to the South Island’s rural landscape. In fact, as soon as you leave the urban centers, you’re met with the most stunning alpine views; from fjords and lakes, to seashore and vineyards, the South Island showcases one marvel after another.
Since my focus is to speak of mindful travel and places that arouse emotions and inspire what I call “travel poetics”, in this article I’ll zoom in on the Mackenzie district, a county of the Canterbury region. The rest of the islands deserves a whole article, too, but that’s a topic for another time.
Mackenzie
Amidst the grandeur of the Southern Alps, the Mackenzie District, renowned for its vast, open landscapes and star-studded skies, is a less known area and a haven for both adventurers and those seeking tranquility.
Here’s where I heard the wind whisper secrets to the steadfast mountains, where I saw turquoise skies meet the golden wind-swept grasses and the lakes move into the crevices of the earth.
Tekapo
One of the district’s crown jewels is Lake Tekapo, with its shimmering turquoise waters framed by snow-capped mountains. This iconic glacial lake is not only a photographer’s dream but also a gateway to outdoor activities such as kayaking, hiking, and stargazing. The nearby Church of the Good Shepherd, perched by the lake’s edge, offers a picturesque setting for reflection and photography.
Practical advice
Should you stay in lake tekapo?
Yes and no. It is in its essence a resort town that caters to domestic as well as foreign tourists, with prominent upper-scale restaurants and golf courses popping up here and there as time goes by and the town becomes better known. Not my cup of tea by all means, but the proximity to national parks and nature reserves made it the ideal place to stop in for a few nights.
Little did I know…
When I arrived to Lake Tekapo, I was utterly overtaken by the beauty of its surroundings and the views I could spot from my rental, a modern sustainable cottage endowed with panoramic windows overlooking the lake. To avoid the tourist crowds, I bought groceries from the co-op in town, cooked my supper night after night, and drank local wine gazing at the starry skies. Subverting my expectations, it turned out to be a fabulous stay.
Ben Ohau and Rohan (yes, Rohan)
The Ben Ohau Range runs parallel to the Southern Alps, separated from the rest of the chain by Lake Pukaki. The mountains offer breathtaking views of the surrounding region, including the iconic Aoraki/Mount Cook, New Zealand’s highest peak.
A few miles from Ben Ohau, down the sloping plateau, you can visit the filming location of Peter Jackson’s The Lord of The Rings. These flatlands, with the tall mountains looming in the background, proved to be the perfect setting for the battle of Pelennor Fields, where Rohan clashed with Mordor in an epic confrontation between the forces of good and evil.
If you’re a fan of JRR Tolkien or Peter Jackson, then you must take a detour on Ben Ohau Rd, off Glen Lyon Rd which runs through the quaint village of Twizel, to reach the location. It is searchable on major GPS apps, so you on’t get lost.
It is a fabulous feeling to immerse yourself in the story and being lulled by the cold winds into the action. For me it was an evocative moment that brought tears to my eyes because it felt so vivid.
Aoraki National Park – The mountain that left me speechless.
Further exploration leads to Mount Cook National Park, home to New Zealand’s highest peak, Aoraki/Mount Cook. The park is a paradise for mountaineers and hikers, boasting a network of trails that cater to all levels of fitness. Whether it’s the gentle Hooker Valley Track or the more challenging ascent of Mueller Hut, the reward is an unparalleled view of the glacial landscapes.
Those are awesome trails, but nothing compares to the Sealy Tarns. In fact, there aren’t any words that can describe the feeling of climbing 2,200 unkempt steps, nicknamed the ‘Stairway to Heaven’, to get to a path of rubble and ice and come face to face with Aoraki. Breathless, fatigued, shaken by the cold and wind, I untangled my Nikon from the layers of thermal clothing to produce images that can explain the expanse of these mountains better than a thousand words could.
Hiker tip: The Sealy Tarns and Kea Point tracks offer superb views of Mueller Glacier, alpine lakes, and glacial moraine.
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The Night Sky
The Mackenzie District is also part of the Aoraki Mackenzie International Dark Sky Reserve, one of the best places in the world to observe the night sky. With minimal light pollution, stargazers can enjoy a celestial spectacle featuring the Milky Way, constellations, and even the occasional aurora australis.
The “northern lights” are visible in the deepest recesses of the southern hemisphere, too, and they have a different name. Much like the northern, the aurora australis (e.g., the southern lights) are a phenomenon that occurs due to interactions between the Earth’s magnetic field and charged particles from the sun. The sun emits a stream of charged particles called the solar wind, which travels through space at high speeds. When these particles reach Earth, they are drawn towards the polar regions by the planet’s magnetic field. As the particles collide with gases in the Earth’s atmosphere, such as oxygen and nitrogen, they transfer energy, causing these gases to emit light in various colors.
Getting Around
The best way to get around is by car or small van, which will allow you freedom to roam and stop when the sudden urge to cry at the stunning landscape hits you. Driving on the country roads of Mackenzie is a journey into the towering mountains of Rohan and the sloping hills of the Shire, the fantasy lands coined by JRR Tolkien. There isn’t any particular direction I can tell you you should be driving, any offshoot of highway 8 will furnish amazing frames.
Unlike Scandinavia and Scotland, New Zealand doesn’t have a general “right to roam”, a law that would allow visitors to walk over private land to get to public land for sensible recreational purposes. With that said, be wary of boundaries and keep your feet on public land and designated trails.
Enjoy the journey, not just the destination.
The true essence of a place lies in the the small moments and personal connections, which make traveling a unique experience. May this slow travel article inspire you to visit the Mackenzie district in the South Island of Aotearoa one day.
Until we meet on the road again soon.
Yours truly,
G.
