Endless sunflower fields, tall musky evergreens, impetuous clear water brooks, misty mountains, derelict castles and charming towns. Little did we know that Slovakia, a small gem of a land in the heart of Central Europe, has so much to offer, from untamed forests and quaint villages, to the cosmopolitan, energizing city of Bratislava, its capital.
One of the most impressive characteristics of the Slovakian landscape is the swift shift from the openness and bright cheerines of the sunflower fields, to the dark and mossy ancient evergreens populating the gorgeous forests.
While cruising through the countryside with our rental car, we couldn’t help but notice the clash between the serene nature and the soviet-era factory and residential blocks. Constructed in drab cement, these buildings are anonymous, desolate, and truly unaesthetic, but undeniably fascinating all the same. They dot the natural scenery of a nation moving forward, headed toward a bright future, but also a nation that has not forgotten who they are, where they came from, and the obstacles they overcame as a collective.
Perhaps due to our choice in travel and intrepid will to dig into uncomfortable realities, whether current or past, the juxtaposing and asynchronous existence of past present, and future manifests itself over and over again. We observed the very same in Estonia, Hungary, and Russia.
We didn’t have many issues communicating effectively with people, even in places where no foreign language was spoken. Whether in urban settings, tourist establishments, or uncharted villages, we naturally engaged in conversation using a combination of English, sometimes a few words of Russian, and a plethora of creative hand gestures. The people we interacted with were very kind, patient, and helpful, some were even amused by our game of charades.
One memorable example that we now laugh about was our first attempt to fill the car with gas. Chris parked at the pump, went inside to pay, and came back out saying that the man behind the counter refused to accept the money. We then went in together and spent the next several minutes light-heartedly trying to communicate and finally worked through to the underlying issue, the gas was to be paid for after filling the tank.
Everyone went out of their way to take the time to guide us through the towns, or tell us which road to take and where to park our car. We needn’t ask, help just came to us.
In the larger towns, people are seeking to modernize. Many times strangers approached us to converse about everything and nothing, making small talk to improve their English skills and asking what brought us to Slovakia. Their curiosity was genuine, their disposition most welcoming.
In opposition to the vibrancy and movement we witnessed in the cities, people living in the rural villages, especially in the mountainous region at the foothills of the Tatras, seemed to simply want to get on with their traditional lifestyle. They carried a warm smile on their faces and slowly cruised through the day, unscathed by the frenetic rhythm of the urban center and unaware of whatever may be happening outside of their peaceful realm.
Reminiscence
Slowing down for the simple pleasures of life, such as indulging in a walk in an uninhabited forest during a chill summer drizzle, inhaling fresh air deeply, and walking on a carpet of soft green moss with my bare feet..
Orava Castle
Where the rocky promontory stands guard to the vast expansion of the forest, the river contours the bluffs in a never-ending dance.
The settlement started out as a small fortified administrative outpost in the 14th century, replacement to an even more transitory wooden barracks destroyed in the 1241 Tartar invasion.
In the mid 1500’s, a prominent family, the Thurzos, acquired the deed to the castle and kickstarted the expansion that lasted until 1611, the year in which the complex assumed the aspect that still has today.
The majority of the architectural features are drawn from the Romanesque and Gothic traditions. Comprised on 154 rooms, and an infinity of stairs connecting the lover castle to the citadel, the construction features great banquet halls, libraries, and torture chambers, all of which are accessible to visitors via “the big tour.” For details about tour availability please visit: https://www.oravskemuzeum.sk/en/exhibition/orava-castle/tours/#article-content
Trenčín
The most welcoming township we encountered along the entire stretch of out journey through Central Europe.
We chose Trenčín as a home-base while spending time in Slovakia because of the reasonable pricing of accommodation and its proximity to the Czech border. Little did we know at the time of finalizing our itinerary that this town is extremely comfortable, welcoming, and cheerful. As a bonus, there are bakeries that serve the best leavened breads you will have the pleasure and privilege of tasting in your life, ever.
Trenčín lies on the banks of the Váh River. Acclaimed for being the home of one of the best preserved castles in the area, which dates back to the 11th century, Trenčín is an undiscovered gem with plenty to see and do both in town and through the region. The Orava Castle is only a 2 hour ride to the Northeast. Furthermore, the surrounding landscape is dotted with numerous castles, some restored while others in ruins. Among the more notable sites are the Castle of Beckov, Čachtice Castle, and Uhrovec Castle, just to name a few.
The Trenčín Castle overlooks the heart of the old town, a small but lively pedestrian thoroughfare called Mierové námestie. The area buzzes with cafes, restaurants, shops, and picturesque fresh water fountains. Summer geraniums hang from balconies and window sills along the entire length of the way. The area is a popular hangout spot where the locals of all ages mingle, enjoying themselves over a cup of coffee or a pint of ale at any hour of the day or night.
Our apartment was located precisely on the pedestrian zone, and luckily the windows faced the quiet inner building’s courtyard (with a lovely view of the castle), as opposed to the busy street. Just a few steps out to the balcony, down the hall to the stairs, and out the wooden central gate and here we were in the center of the action, a few minutes walk from historic buildings, retail stores, bars, restaurants, pharmacies, theaters, and more. Trenčín offers all that one may need for an extended stay, including a wonderfully welcoming citizenry.
Food Thoughts
Although we ascribe to a mostly vegan diet, we reserve the privilege of trying any kind of food while traveling abroad. I am particularly fond of scavenging for the best local bakeries and chocolate shops, savoring my way through their menu, hoping to be stunned by the flavors and textures. Chris is more keen on finding the best local brews and cheese.
If asked what comes to mind about Slovakian cuisine, my first thought goes to their baked goods, rather than savory dishes, in particular the sweet leavened bread from this tiny bakery in Trenčín. It didn’t even have a name, so small and local it was. Reminiscing about that soft, warm dough filled with prunes and a light dusting of powdered sugar brings tears to my eyes.
Shockingly, it was more economical to buy a pint of local ale than a liter of bottled water! Lanius, also in Trenčín, is an especially good place to try some local brews and Halušky, the national dish of Slovakia.
Target travelers
Adequate destination for travelers of all ages. Recommend a sense of adventure. Good for people looking to see castles and medieval ruins and also to hike in beautiful surroundings. Inexpensive and friendly atmosphere throughout.
The best way to travel through Slovakia is by car. Regional trains are an option too, though not the most reliable means of transportation as they incur delays often. Also, some of the more remote regions in the Carpathians and Tatras are not easily accessible by train or public transport. It is just a pleasure to explore the surroundings by car, with the ability of stopping anytime you feel inspired.
