When there are so many places to explore in this world, how can one take the time to soak in the essence of a new environment and not rush from point A to B to C? Slow travel is a foreign and intimidating concept to maximalist travelers, and there’s no blame for wanting to squeeze as many activities as possible into however long at a chosen destination. I was, after all, a high efficiency planner/traveler, a maximalist who wanted to see it ALL. I would meticulously set up museum visits, nature walks, and excursions months in advance. Restaurants, too – I used to create list after list of vetted places where to consume each meal. Planning trips became exhausting. My travels encompassed too many activities and not enough relaxation.
Then I ventured out on my own
without a plan for the first time ever in my life, to India, of all places. Nepal followed. I opened myself up for true, some might say reckless, adventure and become addicted to it. Slow and mindful are the adjectives that I now use to describe my journey to new places and through life. I choose a destination as a starting point, and another as the end, and what’s in between is to be determined based on my hunches and interests at that specific moment, not 6 months prior. I absorb a place’s stimuli and determine what, when, and how to do certain things, or if any at all. It isn’t a passive attitude that I’m talking about; rather, this approach forces me to go with the flow and focus on the small details that otherwise go unnoticed when traveling on a tight, busy schedule.
The Best Time to Visit
Onto the topic of this article: Central Scotland and how to explore it slowly and mindfully. Many of you would want to know, first and foremost, when to visit. As with all things travel related, the best time to visit is a highly subjective preference. Autumn is my favorite season, but I’ll admit that mid to late Spring is my preferred time to visit Scotland.
For this, I strongly encourage you to consider going in May. The blooming rhododendron and heavenly-scented gorse groves are a marvelous sight to see (and smell). The air is salty and refreshing, but not too crisp. Finally, the endless daylight hours, the so called “white nights” when it never gets really dark, afford you the opportunity to go on long hikes until late at night. The downside to visiting during this season is that it begins to get a bit crowded around the well-known tourist spots. Endow yourself with patience because you may have to wait in line to enter landmarks and be seated at restaurants.
The second-best time to visit Central Scotland is in mid to late October. Although there is considerably less daylight, and many restaurants and small businesses don’t fully operate during slow tourist season, the warmth and depth of the autumn colors are absolutely glorious and worth overcoming small inconveniences for. The weather is highly mutable in Autumn, and, truth be told, it kind of always is. I don’t consider the misty rains and chillier winds a downside to visiting in October, but it might be for some. Make sure you bring windbreaks, warm layers, and waterproof gear if venturing out in October and November.
Precious Perthshire
Bucolic, idyllic, picture-perfect… Those are the adjectives that come to mind when I think about Perthshire in Central Scotland. I find myself longing for this particular corner of the country very often, as if I heard the siren’s call from deep within. I don’t know what it is that keeps me coming back to the area; perhaps the silent beauty of the landscape and the friendliness of the people are responsible for luring me in time and again. There is an ineffable quality unique to Perthshire, an enchantment that saturates air, waters, and forests. I’m fine embracing the mystery of not knowing what spell I’m under, and I wonder… Can’t you wait to find out for yourself if you feel the magic, too?
Where to Stay
Nestled in the hills of Perthshire, Killin embodies the perfectly quaint, picturesque village that every slow traveler dreams of. There is much that this place has to offer in terms of peaceful and tranquil activities. You can stroll along sleepy brooks and quiet creeks to reach Neolithic ritual sites, meander through the woods and run into herds of sheep grazing freely in endless fields, hike up the hilltops and take in the stunning 360-degree views, or get lost in conversation with the local innkeeper over a pint of ale or cider. The choice is entirely yours. I guarantee that, whatever it is that you choose to do, you will whole-heartedly enjoy every minute of it.
The village is fairly small but doesn’t lack the essentials that make a prolonged stay comfortable. There is plenty of accommodation, from rental cottages to rooms to let in inns and bed and breakfasts, a pharmacy, urgent care, supermarket, library, post office, and several shops as well as restaurants. All you need, you will find in Killin.
What to Do
A short driving distance on the scenic road flanking Loch Tay lie the towns of Kenmore, Aberfeldy, and Pitlochry, all worth visiting for a wholesome lunch, shopping spree, and distillery tour. If you want to go big, book a guided tour with complimentary tasting and Dewar’s Aberfeldy Distillery, but if you prefer to stay small arrange to see Edradour in Pitlochry, one of the few, if not only, distillery where Scotch Whisky is still handcrafted in very small batches.
If you feel inclined to delve into the history of the district, please do pay a visit to Castle Menzies. Although bookings aren’t required, you may want to phone the office to make sure that the property is open to visitors. Once there, walk in through the front entrance and speak to the kind and knowledgeable historian at the gift shop. Tommy is usually there to welcome tourists, otherwise someone else will be readily available to set you up with a self-guided tour of the castle and grounds.
Do you want to know more about the ancient past of Scotland? You are in for a treat. On the shores of Loch Tay, only a few miles south of Kenmore, the Scottish Crannog Centre showcases historical reconstructions of iron-age water dwellings, known locally by the name of “crannogs.” In addition to offering interactive tours, the site hosts several public events through the year. For further information, please visit: https://crannog.co.uk/
Where to Eat
The establishments that follow are not 100% plant-based restaurants, though they do have several vegetarian and vegan-friendly options on their menus. For plant-based eatery, Fort William, Perth, and Stirling showcase a wider selection of restaurants and cafes to choose from, but those towns are quite far from Killin. Alternatively, the plant-based hotel Saorsa 1875 in Pitlochry, which is still an hour drive from Killin, owns an exclusive restaurant with a tasting menu for lunch and dinner. Book a table in advance if you would like to experience their seasonal vegan cuisine.
Being Pitlochry more than a village, it has a variegated collection of non-Western restaurants, for instance Chinese, Thai, and Indian, where you can consume a vegetarian meal. Should you prefer to stick to something more traditional to the area, Hettie’s Tea Room is a cozy joint for hot beverages, scones, and a slice of pudding, while the Old Mill Restaurant is a good option for happy hour ale and sharables on the outdoor patio. For a date night dinner or a girls’ night out, Fern Cottage Restaurant offers nicely-plated gourmet dishes, a gin list, and a full cocktail bar.
In Killin, I suggest you try The Falls of Dochart (their mushroom risotto is particularly good) and The Curie Inn (try the cullen skink) for dinner and drinks, The Secret Pizza for an informal takeout, and The Shutters for breakfast, coffee, and pastries (grab a slice of smiddy loaf while you are there). The Falls of Dochart and The Curie Inn also have rooms to let upstairs. Ask the staff for availability in case you need a place to stay.
Amongst all the options available in and around Aberfeldy, my absolute favorite is Aberfeldy Watermill Bookshop & Café, which shares space with a beautifully-curated bookshop and a local art gallery/gift shop. The Watermill’s menu features delicious vegetarian and vegan-friendly alternatives, including sweet-treats, freshly-baked sourdough toasties, teas and lattes. The outdoor seating area is surrounded by rivulets, lush vegetation, and colorful potted plants, a bonus feature that turns the simple act of grabbing a quick lunch into a pleasant and leisurely experience, a slow travel on a slow day kind of experience, in fact.
This concludes our slow adventure across the hilly terrain of Central Scotland. I hope you feel inspired to seek out what magic resonates with you, as you drift to the soft rhythm of this land.
Until we meet again,
Gloria
Next on the travel radar: The Northern Highlands.
