In my last travel post, my vagabond daydreaming took me on a trip down memory lane to the time I spent exploring every nook and cranny, village and small town in Central Scotland. Part two of this journey will fly us to the rugged and dramatic landscapes of the Sutherland district and the north.
Maybe the rolling hills and quaint villages of Perthshire don’t quite resonate with your idea of an off-the-grid vacation to Scotland. Once past Inverness, the last city of a considerable size, you find yourself in the craggy and sparsely-populated district of Sutherland, where the Highland Spirit is at its wildest (and so are the winds!). Be prepared to drive on narrow, brittle, unpaved roads and lose sight of gas stations for long stretches at a time. Brace yourself for pure isolation and stunning scenery veiled in a halo of otherworldliness, lonesomeness, and melancholy. Like in a Romantic painting, roaring waterfalls and castles in ruin are always in sight.
The beauty of primitive, untamed wilderness
makes me gain introspection on the fragility of human condition,
that which truly matters and that which is null
I am at a loss for words that can effectively convey the beauty of these lands. Images, in this case, say it better than I ever could.
Where to Stay
In a central position, and not terribly far from Inverness to the south, the area surrounding the town of Lairg is a good location to establish a slow travel home way from Home. The wide range of untamed scenery, rapidly changing from mild hills and lush forests to dramatic cliffs and barren highland peaks, makes Lairg, in the Sutherland district, particularly suitable for creatives, slow travelers, and outdoor enthusiasts looking to rejuvenate and meditate on their journey.
While the taste of the salty dampness and the sounds of the wind-swept seas are constant companions on the northern coast, the sight of peaceful woodlands and sheltered hamlets feature prominently around the more temperate and hospitable inland valleys. I find the hollows reassuringly quiet and uneventful compared to the coast, and as such they embody the perfect place to unwind and relax after a day spent meandering in and through the mountain and cliffside trails.
Although I recommend seeking accommodation in the central parts of Sutherland instead of the coast (any rental bothy between Bonar Bridge and Lairg is an optimal base to explore the north), the choice is entirely dependent on one’s proclivities. Who knows, maybe next time I will find myself booking a tiny holiday home on the tip of Stoer, not too far from the lonely lighthouse. For now, I cast my vote in favor of Lairg and the hollows. If your budget allows it, book a rental with a small kitchenette. Because many restaurants and inns close down in autumn and winter, you will likely find yourself preparing meals when visiting in the off season.
What to Do
Just slow cruising around the Assynt peninsula, in Sutherland, is an adventure in its own right. The elements can be wild, and so is the landscape, which presents interesting features around every bend on the desolate road.
A self-driving tour, at your own pace, of the Assynt peninsula is a must. Coming from Lairg and heading out west on scenic road A837, past Ledmore Junction and in the direction of Lochinver, I recommend that you reserve some time to stop at the following points of interest:
The Bone Caves
Only a few miles past Ledmore Junction on route A837, take the short path leading to the bone caves from the carpark off the right-hand side of the road. The trail is mostly a gentle, though uneven, slope suitable for hikers of all ages and offers scenic views of the surrounding gorges, waterfalls, and plateaus. Aim for either an early morning or twilight-approaching excursion if spotting wildlife interests you. When we visited, at dusk on a late-October rainy day, herds of doe and stag roamed freely in close proximity to the stream flanking the trail.
Ardvreck Castle
…Or what remains of it, is worth seeing if only for the dramatic feel that the ruins impart. Grazing the shores of Loch Assynt, Ardvreck Castle is a nostalgic glimpse into Scotland’s gloomy past, a past that, although vanishing, still haunts these unique lands.
Lochinver
A quaint harbor town on the coast, Lochinver is possibly one of the few places where restaurants and cafes operate year-round. Stop in at Lochinver Larder, a family-run pie shop, for a bite to eat. The café has a wide selection of traditional, freshly-baked sweet and savory pies to choose from (vegetarian options are also available). If you opt to spend a quiet afternoon rambling around town, easy walking loops are available just off the side of the road in the direction of River Inver.
Clashnessie
Take route A869 from Lochinver in the direction of Clachtoll and Stoer to experience magnificent views of the tempestuous northern seashore, isolated coves, and dramatic cliffs. Moving further north, stop in Clashnessie to take the somewhat hidden trail guiding you to the waterfalls. The path is uneven and boggy most of the time, so make sure you wear waterproof shoes, or even better “wellies” (aka knee-high rubber boots) – it will be a wet, muddy, and slippery, but also peaceful, bucolic, and meditative walk you’ll be taking.
Drumberg
Continuing further up on route A869 in the direction of Kylesku, Drumberg offers many scenic overlooks of the lochs and promontories characterizing the geology of this area. Take one of the countless trails that lead nowhere in particular to get in touch with the essence and vibrations of this mesmerizing land. Don’t forget to bring your camera or sketchbook with you, because every nook and cranny in Drumberg unveils an opportunity for inspiring artistic compositions, even more so at sundown when the light is warm and diffused.
…a romantic landscape of melancholic views and evanescent sonorities…
Where to Eat
This is a bit of a sticking point. There certainly isn’t much in terms of restaurants serving supper after, let’s say, 7 pm (?) during off season, unless you head on down to Dingwall, which has a decent selection of establishments, from dinner restaurants and gastropubs, to lunch/coffee joints and bakeries. Other than that, you may encounter some lunch places in Lochinver, Kylesku, and Lairg township open three to four times a week. There might be inns with an attached restaurant along the main routes, but most of those are only open during high season (e.g., spring and summer). Worst case scenario, there are co-ops and very small convenience stores, where you can purchase groceries and deli sandwiches, scattered around Sutherland. Consult a map to see the locations and hours of operations if in doubt.
This concludes part two of the Scottish Highlands piece. Click here to link to part one of this series. Share our slow travel articles with your family and friends to spark interest in our beautiful planet.
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Until we meet on the road again,
Gloria
