Slow Travel, Simple Pleasures, and a Pinch of Everyday Magic

Sparkles: Nordic Travel Memoirs

This morning I woke up surrounded by sparkles. The light filtered through the crystals hanging on our bedroom walls reflecting the morning light coming from the East. Outside the forest and ground cover were wrapped in an iridescent blanket of frost. I opened the windows and the air was cold and invigorating. I shivered, wrapped myself in a blanket, and in my mind traveled back to the time spent in two beautiful cities: Stockholm, Sweden and Tallinn, Estonia.

I am a firm believer that each and every place has latent energy waiting patiently to be discovered and tapped into. All locations have their peak of magic and mystique at different times and seasons.

Stockholm and Tallinn radiate surreal beauty during the winter months, especially the weeks leading up to Yuletide.

Everywhere I looked, I saw sparkles, just like this morning. Shimmering lights lined the streets, hung on window panes, touched the snow-covered roofs, and brightened people’s eyes. 

The warmth from the small, cozy cafes, the blazing flames of a hearth infused me with love and joy down to the very core of my being. Suddenly all worries and sorrows seemed to melt away, dissipating into nothingness.

The winter skies and the ever-changing horizons were vast and unfathomable. I thought I saw the Earth curving before my very eyes, and as I looked up once more, I felt transported into a snow globe, safe and forever preserved in my current state of bliss.

A Good Dose of Winter Fun

Stockholm: The Djurgården and Skansen.

The capital of Sweden, Stockholm, was founded in 1252 and became a prominent Nordic trading center shortly after. Built on 14 islands, water, nature, and beautiful architecture are ubiquitous sights throughout the city center.

The Djurgården is one of the islands in the city center, accessible by car or on foot by a bridge and a dramatic wrought iron cobalt blue gate, which is especially beautiful when surrounded by snow. It is home to gardens, museums, historic estates, restaurants, cafes, and amusement parks. 

Tip: Skansen, the open air folk museum, is usually very busy in the spring and summer, but not so crowded in the colder winter months, when the daylight is fleeting. It is a nice place to walk around and while doing so, get a feel for Swedish traditions. There you can shop for local artisan goods, see reproductions of traditional buildings, and observe nordic animals roaming through the gardens. If you feel up for a challenge, you can also ride a sleigh up and down the hilly terrain. Top it all off with a warm kanelbulle and here you have the perfect day.

 

Tallinn: Old Town and the Christmas Market

The capital city of the small Baltic state of Estonia, Tallinn was settled over 5,000 years ago. Around the year 1050, Danish settlers began to construct fortifications on the Toompea hill, thus giving birth to what later became the city of Tallinn. 

The Old Town center is a small walled medieval enclave of restaurants, shops, cafes, and a variety of museums, some dealing with somber topics such as dark history and the occult, while others showcasing edible national treasures like marzipan and chocolate. 

For the full winter wonderland experience, I recommend visiting the Old Townhall Christmas market, where you will find that eating and drinking are highly praised activities -fried dough, cheese, sweet pastries, marzipan and much more. Eat as much as you can and wash it down with warm Glögi, that is Estonian mulled wine.

 

Although the drink is delicious and a comforting delight to sip on while exposed to the harsh baltic winter climate, I should note that it is much stronger than any other national varieties I have ever tried. 

Stomach full and cup in hand, it would be the perfect time to meander through the town’s labyrinthine alleyways to slowly take in the cheery view of the many lights decorating historic building facades and the multitude of sparkles illuminating the christmas trees at the street corners.