I was recently on a month-long journey through Andalusia and Castilla-La Mancha, Spain and Northern and Central Italy, where I connected with some family and long-term friends. While in Rome, I just couldn’t handle the traffic and chaotic city noise. Being accustomed to the quiet of my home in a small, colonial New England town, the summer heat and fast rhythm of the metropolis quickly became too much to handle for me.
Maybe you’ve had enough of the chaos of Rome, too, and wish to venture out to the hillside for a day of outstanding fresh food and relaxation. Your schedule is tight and aren’t too sure whether you can squeeze in a few days at the beach? My recommendation is that you head on over to Umbria. I did the same, and it was such a reprieve that, when I returned to the city, I was completely regenerated and ready for more urban mayhem.
Where is Umbria? Umbria is a landlocked, semi-mountainous region on the Apennine Mountains. It’s nestled among Latium, Le Marche, and Tuscany, so a short driving distance from Rome, Florence, and Ancona. The region is known for its earthy cuisine, medieval villages, and slow-living philosophy. You’ll be hard-pressed to find anyone in a hurry in Umbria. Relax and enjoy the scenery at a slow pace.
First stop: Narni
Yes, you guessed it. The famous novel by C. S. Lewis gets its name from this small town where he seemingly vacationed before setting on to writing his most acclaimed work, The Chronicles of Narnia.
Park your car at one of the public parking lots down the hill (I suggest that you park at the “Parcheggio Centro Storico”) and hike up to the historic city center. Alternatively, you can take the funicular from said parking lot and avoid the climb, though you would be miss out on the meandering alleys, which are precious in an of themselves.
Once in the center, check out the Cathedral of Saint Juvenal and the Narni Sotterranea (the “Underground Narni Museum”). The Narni Sotterranea is, in fact, a subterranean archaeological site boasting late medieval places of worship. It is only possible to visit the museum upon reservation with a guided tour. Entry tickets may be purchased here (https://www.narnisotterranea.it/) prior to your visit.
Quick note that the cathedral is still an active place of worship, therefore dress adequately if you intend to enter the church premises.
Second Stop: San Gemini
Leaving Narni, head to the burgh of San Gemini, allegedly one of the most quaint villages in Italy (I believe it). Leave your car outside the city walls and go on a leisurely stroll along the small village streets. Take Via Roma all the way up to Palazzo Canova, at the main square. Along the way, you will see small family-run giftshops, bars, and “osterie” (e.g., taverns). Continuing on Via Casventino, visit the Church of Santa Maria de Incertis and the Church of San Giovanni Battista, the latter is situated next to Porta Civica, marking the outer bounds of the city and its walls.
If you are interested in ethical, locally-harvested honey, check out “Apicoltura, Il Regno delle Api”, a small shop selling goods grown on their sustainable honey farm.
Further, if you are fond of craft beer and plan to spend the rest of the afternoon, and perhaps the night, in San Gemini, stop in at the microbrewery “I Frati Birrai.” The beer garden opens at 6 pm and is managed by the adjacent tavern (more on the tavern below). Should you opt for staying the night, I highly recommend “I Frati Birrai” for their craft brew selection, kind service, unassuming vibe, and MAGICAL botanical setting.
Restaurant Suggestion
For a delicious, farm-to-table homecooked meal in a lovely 12th century building, visit the restaurant “Taverna del Torchio.” Here you can savor the prestigious local black truffle mushroom, smoked cheese, extra-virgin olive oil, and a variety of fresh a-la-carte noodles. Let the staff know about your dietary preferences, and they will gladly suggest alterations to their menu to suit your requirements. For example, they prepared a vegan main course of homemade pasta with fresh truffle sauce and an abundant side dish of fire-roasted seasonal vegetables especially for me! It was lovely.
If you are of drinking age, taste their gentian amaro (bitters) after your meal, which will serve as a delightful digestive aid. Gentian is a wild, rare plant in Italy, and it is extremely difficult to find liqueurs that feature this gracious, helpful herb these days.
Stop Three: Todi
Oh the afternoon torpor… Get on up because the charming village of Todi is next in line on our daytrip. I am afraid that more hiking up the alleyways awaits you, but I promise it will be worth the effort. In all honesty, Narni’s alley are much steeper than Todi’s, so you will have no trouble tackling these streets.
Leave your vehicle behind, pass through the city gate “Porta Romana”, and walk up Via Giacomo Matteotti until you reach the inner city walls, and thus Porta della Catena. The time has come to let your senses take over and lead you to unknown corners of the village, where you will presented with outstanding views over the valley and hills. Also, Todi is a bigger urban center (about 16,000 inhabitants) than San Gemini, and it is hence bursting with gift and local gastronomy shops, where you will find artisanal souvenirs alongside culinary delicacies.
At the main square, “Piazza del Popolo”, you will find the archaeological area of the Roman cisterns, which you can access with a local guide for a small entrance fee. Also at Piazza del Popolo, you will see the Cathedral of Santissima Annunziata that is accessible to all at no cost. A short walk from the square, you will run into the Casa Dipinta O’Doherty, an original 19th century construction that the Irish conceptual artist and renowned art critic purchased in 1975 as a vacation home. Today the eclectic painted home is a museum space accessible to the public for a small entrance fee.
Here concludes our brief daytrip to Umbria. Of course, there is so much more to explore in this territory with its characteristic brazen spirit and magical flair, its unique, rugged, and earthly beauty. Next time I’m around, I silently promised myself that I will be touring its lakes, brooks, and waterfalls to reconnect with the elements and the distant past, to reach into the secrets that this land safeguards and the magic hidden within.
Until then, goodbye Umbria.
